Around 6:30am on Saturday May 21, we leave our anchorage at Spanish Wells, St. George Cay, to begin the last leg of this Bahamas adventure. It was a gorgeous morning on the water – wind on our port between 14 and 17 knots, partly sunny skies, both sails full and engine off. We arrive at Rose Island Beach in time for a late lunch. Rose Island Beach is on the opposite side of the island from the spot where we anchored many weeks ago. The beach is a prime destination for mega yatchs, cruisers, and locals alike, so we were surrounded by a plethora of vessels and yacht toys. Given the tight anchorage and all the activity, the Casstaway crew opts to stay aboard for the afternoon. That evening, we join David on Holokai for steak night and cards. It will be another early day tomorrow as we head to Chubb Cay, our last inhabited destination before we make the crossing back to the US.
A very rocky-rolly ride on Sunday, May 22, to Bird Cay, just across from Chubb Cay, where we hope to clear customs for our return to the US. Winds and sea remain choppy and we spend an uncomfortable night. On Monday, we decide to brave the waves and dinghy to Chubb to explore a large creek where friends on EWWE2 had earlier discovered a trove of sea turtles. We tie David’s dinghy to Casstaway and make a very bumpy short motor to Chubb. Trying to splash Wilson (our dinghy) and get both Todd and Tanya aboard was a precarious proposition, and David found getting aboard his dinghy to be challenging as well (those are vast understatements, it was a b*#%h! ). But we made it and the float through the creek was a calm respite, seeing many turtles and three beautiful starfish. Of course with all of the hullabaloo we forgot our phone/camera.
Back at the ranch, our research finds that the Chubb Cay Yacht Club has some very interesting policies, i.e., if you don’t rent an overnight slip at the marina you must purchase a “day pass” for $69, which “allows” vessels, and up to three crew, to use their pool, and spend money at their stores, bar and restaurant. How generous of them. And of course, a day pass is the only way to come ashore to clear customs, as no dinghy landings are allowed. Well, poop on that. We gather our righteous indignation and decide to revamp our route and head to Great Harbour Cay, where the marina is much more welcoming. We loved our time at Great Harbour last trip and look forward to showing it to David. So, after another night of rock n’ roll, we head to Great Harbour on Tuesday, May 24.
Another rolly day on the water but we make the cut at Great Harbour Cay early on Wednesday afternoon and anchor in the large “hurricane hole” just outside the Great Harbour Cay Marina. Tanya calls Carriearls Restaurant, a Casstaways favorite from three years ago to make dinner reservations. Au contraire, the hotel and restaurant have changed hands and now Carriearls “Roost” is only open on Friday and Saturday nights from 7:00 – 9:00pm. So, we invite David over for teriyaki pork chops, rice, and zucchini boats.
On Thursday morning Todd makes water before we all head to the marina to clear customs for our Bahamas departure. But this is island time and we wait almost three hours for the agent to arrive – it takes less than two minutes to sign one piece of paper. Not expecting to be delayed ashore that long we have nothing thawed for dinner ( you may remember that our fridge has died and we are trying, with only mild success, to dual purpose our freezer). But David saves the day with two kielbasa, Todd grills, and Tanya makes cole slaw and reheats leftover zucchini. Appetizers are smoked salmon spread and cheese and crackers to see us through another rousing game of Wizard.
Rise and shine Thursday, May 26. We have at least a 14 hour day ahead to reach Orange Cay, our last overnight stop before crossing the Gulf Stream back to Florida. We had originally planned a to break the day up with an overnight on an ocean shoal, but weather now predicts much better winds for crossing on Friday vs Saturday. We have a great motor sail to Orange Cay, with sunshine, reasonably calm seas, and winds variable from 10 – 15 knots, largely on a beam/broad reach. Holoki suggests that we might consider skipping Orange Cay completely and making the overnight sail across the Stream. The Captain and Admiral confer and decide plan A is go ahead and anchor before dark and try to get a few hours of sleep before heading on.
At 8:30pm, with nightfall quickly approaching, we set anchor in 15 feet of water in the Atlantic with land nowhere in sight. After a quick dinner of taco soup that Tanya made underway, The Casstaways lay down for a very bouncy nap at 10:00pm. We plan to reassess wind at 3:30 am.